Just a short six hour drive and we are in Pamplona. Instead of taking a train, Jeff drove me. Tomorrow is a bus to St Jean to the other side if the Pyrenees and France.
The drive was uneventful. We drove the Autovia de Camino De Santiago from Astorga to Burgos. Then up the A1 to Pamplona. I could see Peregrinos from near Leon to close to Fromista. The trees the Junta de Castilla y Leon have planted to provide some shade on the path in The Meseta have grown larger in four years.
It felt weird to drive it. Last time I would look at passing cars on a miserably hot day and think ‘Why am I out here instead of in a car with AC?’
It felt like an inordinately long drive. The walk from Burgos to Leon is 6-8 days. As the thermostat in the car began to climb from a Galician 10 degrees to a Castilla y Leon 27. but its better than when Emilie and I walked it in the 30’s. We had to get up at 4am to try to beat the sun and to get in as many kilometers as we could with headlamps before that happened.
The turn north at Burgos had the landscape transforming from rolling wheat fields dried brown by the intense sun, to craggy granite mountains covered in green the closer we got to Pamplona.
Entering the city in a car was as confusing as it was on foot the last time. Crazy. Emilie and I walked an additional 12 kms when a not very nice person told us if we wanted to walk the real route we would go the way he was directing us. We arrived in Pamplona ready to collapse.
This time, I was at the wheel and Jeff was navigating. He loathes entering old castles or walled towns through narrow porticos and draw bridged. I love them.
We walked around a bit in search of food. I found the Albergue where Emilie and I stayed. If I had a nonsensical dream that bed shortages for 2021 might just occur from Sarria to Santiago, I was swiftly disavowed of this notion. Even the huge Albergue Jesus y Maria was already full by 3pm. This is not a normal year.
We strolled about the town in search of food. Luckily, unlike in so much of Spain, in Pamplona Pilgrims can get food all day long. I thought of my Mom as we ate yummy Mexican burritos. Last time I was here in Pamplona when she asked me how I liked the food. ‘It’s like Mexican food, right?’ I had to explain how Spanish food and Mexican food couldn’t be further apart. But today, here we were eating Mexican food in Pamplona.
Thank goodness, we are back in the AC at our hotel. Jeff only has so much Pilgrim in him. After he leaves, it’s Albergues or a tent for me. Kickin’ it Pilgrim old school, Tomorrow at two pm will find me on a bus to St Jean. Excited and a bit nervous. But I’ve done it before. I can do it again.
Viva Espana 
I’m so excited for you, Kelli! Buen camino, amiga. May your camino bring you what you need – and it’s okay change your mind at some point and stay at a hotel, hahahaa. Just sayin’. Lots of love and power and strength and energy sending your way 💕
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I will take all you’ve offered up on board. I think on this one I will need it. When I am desperate for a real bath I will acquiesce.
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Looking forward to reading about your journey. I’ll be about 2 weeks behind you. I cannot wait.
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Lets see how fast I go. You might just catch up to me😎
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Buen Camino! I started from St Jean Aug 31st in 2015. Really miss the trail and hope to go back and do it again. My hubby and I are going yo your old stomping ground Valencia and a few other cities (Denia, Alicante). Any tips you have for our visit?
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Thank you 😊 When are you going to Valencia? There is the once in a lifetime Fall Fallas 2021 this year. I would say that the Church of St Nicolas is not to be missed. The Mercat Central – of course. But just walking the Turia down to The City of Arts and Sciences is lovely. And, of course, go to the cafeteria on the top floor of El Corte Inglés- the one with the books on the ground floor – and sit outside on the terrace. It’s a lovely, safe view out over the top of the old city. Sometimes, I miss it.
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Hi Again: sorry I just now checked your comment. We are arriving in Alicante on 9/26 then moving up to Denia on 10/2 for a week and then up to Valencia on 10/9. We are debating on how many days to spend there. We miss the Camino so much my husband is thinking we may travel up to Logrono or Viana to stay for a few days. We just need to smell the path! HAHAHA Thanks for the tips on Valencia.
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I hear you. It’s nice to be walking the path again. I’ll be in Logroño in a week. La Rioja is special this time of year during the crush. Have a wonderful trip!
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You are so brave.
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Some might say crazy 😜 But I’ll take brave😉 I just have to go slow. Rebuild my strength. I’m battling no one but me. 💪🏽
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Crazy brave, your Native American name.
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I am nervous but feel like I need to go. Five weeks from now I will have shed my cocoon. Hopefully I will be able to fly 🦋
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I hope so too. Buen Camino 💝
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Safe travels! Buen Camino 💞
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Muchas gracias 🙏
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